I was told that the normal range is between 15,000 and 25,000 miles. It seems I’m on the worse end of tire wear and tear. In any case, after two years and fewer than 17,000 miles, I replaced all four tires at a cost of almost $1,700 ( $1,671.64 to be exact). Next time I will shop around a bit more and have more faith in local tire shops…. I have since been told by another Tesla owner to just buy tires through Tire Kingdom and that I paid way too much. Not wanting to bother with taking the car to a separate place for tires, and trusting that Tesla would give me a good deal since Tesla’s aim is to not make a profit on service and to treat customers well, I decided to just go with Tesla’s recommendations and not stress. When the mobile service technician visited to look at the trunk, and also at a previous service visit when he came to replace the 12V battery (see below), he checked the tire treads and some other things and told me the tread level was low and should be replaced soon. Replacing Tires New tires at nearly 17,000 miles and two years of ownership. It was all done under warranty, so at no cost to me, aside from the time. Eventually, though, 3 weeks after I put in the initial service request, I had an appointment at the local Tesla service center and brought the car in for the harness to be replaced. This is not a mobile service task, and Tesla had to order a part before providing the service. Here’s a short video of me just showing that the trunk won’t open trying from either the touchscreen or the trunk itself: In such a case, the whole harness has to be replaced. If a wire or two gets damaged, things stop working. There’s a wiring harness in the trunk door that carries wires from various things back there to the front (including from the cameras and trunk latch). He hadn’t seen this problem before but talked to a colleague who had seen it a few times in Texas. I scheduled a mobile service visit and a few days later the ranger came and checked it out. I opened the trunk manually several times, but it wouldn’t start working correctly again, so I knew it needed service. And the camera acted up a few times just like before. We were going to Europe for a month and a half to spend time with my wife’s family, so I didn’t want to mess with service appointments at the time, and everything seemed to be back to normal.Īfter we returned, though, within a couple of days, the trunk wouldn’t open again. ![]() But then it came back and worked like normal. The trunk then worked, so I figured it was just a temporary glitch.Īt around the same time, the backup camera didn’t work a few times. Indeed, that worked, since there’s a manual latch in the trunk door. After a day of not getting it to open, and needing to get some tennis equipment out of it for my daughters, I realized I might be able to go through the back seat and open it from the inside. Opening TrunkĪ few months ago, I went to open the trunk and it wouldn’t open. I’m going to go backward from most recent to least recent, since the recent stuff is more interesting. I recently had a service visit for a couple of things, but rather than write only about them, I figured it would be useful for people to see our full service history with the car. We’ve had our Tesla Model 3 SR+ for a bit more than 2 years now. ![]() Have you experienced this issue in your new LFP Model 3? Let us know in the comments below.Sign up for daily news updates from CleanTechnica on email. Tesla is also recommending to avoid running the battery to below 10% until you have performed the calibration.ĭespite the vast majority of the cases occurring when the main battery is at a low SOC, there have also been reports of the Li-Ion battery failing when the main battery is as high as 50% SOC. This will calibrate the battery and the computer will know more precisely how much range the battery has left in it. Tesla has already issued an internal memo recommending new owners charge their LFP battery to 100% as soon as possible after taking delivery. When there is no power in the main battery, the 12V isn’t charged anymore and dies within minutes. With an uncalibrated battery, the computer is estimating it still has some range left, but in reality it is actually at 0%. Tesla is aware of the issue, and believes it is happening because the LFP battery hasn’t been calibrated properly since leaving the factory. One theory for this is because it has a higher voltage (15.5V), and since lead acid batteries have a maximum voltage of 12.8V, it can’t charge the Li-Ion battery. Making the problem worse, owners have so far been unable to jump the new Li-Ion battery with a lead acid battery. Just like when the lead-acid battery would die, this leaves the vehicle stranded and undriveable. “Stop safely, car is shutting down” Credit: Facebook
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